Step into a world of opulence and intrigue! The Victoria & Albert Museum in London is currently hosting an exhibition that dives deep into the glittering world of Marie Antoinette, and it's a must-see for anyone fascinated by royal history and exquisite jewelry. Let's explore some of the breathtaking pieces on display, shall we?
My friend, Patricia Treble, the brilliant mind behind Write Royalty, recently visited the V&A, taking in both the Cartier exhibition and the captivating Marie Antoinette Style showcase. This exhibition isn't just about the queen's jewelry; it's a journey through her life, her fashion choices, and her enduring influence on the decorative arts. You'll find genuine artifacts from Marie Antoinette's time, pieces belonging to her contemporaries, and items inspired by her legacy.
Sarah Grant, the exhibition's curator, perfectly captures the essence of Marie Antoinette: "Marie Antoinette’s name summons both visions of excess and objects and interiors of great beauty. The Austrian archduchess turned Queen of France had an enormous impact on European taste and fashion in her own time, creating a distinctive style that now has universal appeal and application.” She continues, “Marie Antoinette’s story has been re-told and re-purposed by each successive generation to suit its own ends. The rare combination of glamour, spectacle and tragedy she presents remains as intoxicating today as it was in the 18th century.”
Thanks to Patricia's generosity, we have a sneak peek at some of the dazzling jewelry associated with Marie Antoinette. And, of course, no discussion of Marie Antoinette's jewels is complete without mentioning the infamous necklace that played a role in her downfall.
But here's where it gets controversial... The necklace on display at the V&A isn't the original Böhmer et Bassange necklace from the scandalous Affair of the Necklace. That magnificent piece, commissioned in 1772, was dismantled long ago. Instead, the exhibition showcases a stunning replica crafted in 1960 by Albert Guerrin and Paulette Laubie, faithfully recreating the original design.
Marie Antoinette's name is forever linked to the Affair of the Necklace, but the reality is more nuanced. The queen was, in fact, a minor player in the scandal. The jewelers, struggling to sell the necklace after Louis XIV's death, were deceived by a cunning courtier who convinced them Marie Antoinette was secretly purchasing the necklace through an intermediary.
And this is the part most people miss... Marie Antoinette had no involvement in the transactions. The courtier made off with the necklace, which was then broken up and smuggled out of France. Some of the dismantled diamonds may have found their way into the collection of the Dukes of Sutherland.
The Sutherland collection features a necklace set with twenty diamonds, some believed to have originated from the original Böhmer et Bassange necklace. This necklace was worn as a bandeau-style tiara by Harriet, Duchess of Sutherland, at Queen Victoria's coronation. These diamonds were showcased at several other coronations and celebrations. In 2022, the necklace was acquired by the government and allocated to the V&A.
Another jewel, possibly containing diamonds from the original necklace, is the diamond négligé. This piece, with its rows and tassels, mirrors the design of the original necklace. It was owned for years by the Marquesses of Anglesey and graced several British royal coronations. In 2024, the Anglesey necklace was sold at Sotheby’s in Geneva for a staggering $4.8 million and is now on loan to the V&A from its new owner, who has a remarkable private jewelry collection known as “The ILLUMINATA Collection.”
Beyond the Affair of the Necklace, the exhibition features other exquisite pieces owned by Marie Antoinette. These include a diamond and pearl drop pendant and a diamond bow brooch, both inherited by her surviving daughter and passed down through the Bourbon-Parma family.
The diamond ribbon brooch, created in France after Marie Antoinette's marriage to the future Louis XVI, was smuggled out of the country before the revolution and later given to their daughter, Madame Royale. After her death in 1851, her jewels were inherited by her niece, the Duchess of Parma, and her nephew, the Count of Chambord, both members of the Bourbon-Parma family. The family owned the jewel for over a century, adding a yellow diamond pendant to the brooch. In 2018, the brooch was sold at auction by Sotheby's for over $2 million and is now part of a private collection.
The stunning diamond and pearl pendant, also worn by Marie Antoinette, followed a similar path. Hidden during the revolution, it was given to Madame Royale and eventually bequeathed to the Bourbon-Parmas. In 2018, the pendant was sold by Sotheby's, with jewelry collector Heidi Horten paying over $36 million for it. It remains part of the collection of the museum she founded in Austria and is on loan to the V&A for this exhibition.
I'm so thankful to Patricia for sharing this glimpse into Marie Antoinette Style. (I've already booked my flight to see next year’s Elizabeth II fashion exhibition in London, but I'll be missing Marie Antoinette!) If you haven't already, be sure to check out her excellent Substack newsletter, Write Royalty.
For those lucky enough to visit the exhibition in person, it's open through March 2026 at the Victoria & Albert Museum in London, and tickets are available. To delve even deeper into the jewelry on display, don't miss my earlier piece on the jewels at Hidden Gems, too!
What are your thoughts on Marie Antoinette's legacy and the enduring allure of her jewelry? Do you find the story of the Affair of the Necklace as fascinating as I do? Share your opinions in the comments below!
